All LED signs will eventually fail. The most common problems are: power supplies, ribbon cables, and module failure.
Power Supply: Converts 110/220 AC to 5V or 4.2V DC
Sending Card: Asynchronous (runs Android/Linux directly) or Synchronous (requires computer to constantly feed content). This card is specifically configured for the pixel matrix of your sign. You can not replace this card without reconfiguring it.
Receiving Card: Takes sending card data and distributes it to hub card. This board contains a configuration file (.rcfgx, .rcfg, etc) on it that allows it to control your specific modules. Because this receiving card can control any module made in China, it’s very important that it has this configuration file. You can not just replace this board with the same model and expect it to work, it will never work out of the box, it always needs this file. Depending on the control system, it might be possible to readback the parameters from another receiving card in the sign that is working correctly and write them to a new card.
Hub Card: Interface board between the modules and the control system (sending card/receiving card). This is specific to the modules you are using, with the most common full color hubs being 75 and 40. For single/tri color the most common are 08 and 12. This board does not contain any configuration data and rarely goes bad.
Module: An LED module has led diodes on that front, either DIP or SMD and has IC chips on the back. After many years of operation it’s common for a chip on a module to fail. A 1/4 scan module has 1 IC per 64 pixels of each color, so a P10 32×32 module will have 48 ICs. (32x32x3) / 64. A 4′ x 8′ double sided sign has 3072 chips so even with a 0.001% failure rate after 5 years there would be 3 bad chips. If there is 1 bad chip it will knock out the whole color on the module and all modules after it.
Ribbon Cable: Connects modules together and to the hub card on the receiving card.
Power Cable: Transfers power from Power Supply to LED Module.
Fan: Either 110/220 AC or 5V DC fans keep the display cool.
Black Screen: No power to sign, bad sending card (especially PSD100), bad power supply to sending card, bad ethernet cable to receiving card, bad receiving card (unlikely).
Line across screen: IC failure on module (common) or bad ribbon cable.
No communication: PTP communication failure. Run Ubiquiti discovery or Engenius locator to diagnose.
Bad Receiving Card
Bad Power Cable
Before contacting us we will need the following information:
Controller Model – every PCB inside of the sign should have some markings on it to identify the brand or model. For example the common PSD100 card says PSD100 on it: https://olympianled.com/product/novastar-pluto-psd100-led-controller/
Software – the software used to control the sign. If you know this, we can at least identify the brand of controller.
We are very interested in helping people fix their LED signs. We stock a lot of popular controllers used in LED signs, as well as the modules. If we do not have it in stock or do not have it listed on our site, don’t worry, we can help you find it!
We can fix almost every LED Sign, but some times we can actually offer you a brand new sign for less than the cost to fix your existing sign!
Common LED Sign Repair Services:
LED Diode Replacement
Supported Brands: (if you don’t see it listed, we can probably still help)
Watchfire LED Sign Repair
Vantage LED Sign Repair
Ebsco LED Sign Repair
HiTech LED Sign Repair
Leading Edge Displays Repair
The LED Sign Company Repair
Adstar Displays Repair
Outdoor Media Display Repair
SIGNCO LED Repair
UltraBrite LED Sign Repair
Signtronix LED Sign Repair